Walking the line

Merin White's exclusive insider's look on how to experience the best of Bangkok!

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Was it Neville Chamberlain who told the long suffering inhabitants of Britain that they had ‘never had it so good’ in the 1960s? Well the same statement might be made to the people of Bangkok in relation to their transport system. With the new Skytrain and Underground now operational the commuter no longer has to endure hours spent in snarled traffic without any hope of progress except shank’s pony. It is now possible to move around a lot of this seething metropolis without a car on the pristine elevated train or the equally well maintained underground. Whilst this has finally put paid to the always available excuse of ‘rot tit’ ( literally traffic stuck ) for those coming to social occasions late it is nevertheless a most welcome relief for veterans of Bangkok. Truly we never have had it so good.

There are three overhead rot fai faa or skytrains and the one that might interest a casual visitor most is probably the line that runs from Saparn Taksin to the Naitional Stadium. What would have taken the tourist two days of frustrating traffic can be accomplished in a pleasant afternoon with the option, at all times, of abandoning the day and settling down to a brisk ride home over the tops of the grinding traffic and busy crowds. Travelling this route will give the visitor a real sense of Bangkok – from the historic beginnings of the city through its association with foreign powers and on to the modern business and shopping that characterize much of today’s city.

The natural point to begin the journey is by the river at which point the line starts or terminates depending on your point of view. Taksin was the king who brought the Thai capital south from Ayuttaya after the Burmese sacked the ancient capital and Taksin Bridge ( Saparn Taksin ) takes the visitor over to Thonburi , the site of the original move. Taksin was later removed from power in a military coup – shades of things to come! – but he is a most respected and revered figure in Thai history for his eventual defeat of the Burmese army. The station itself is ideally located for those who wish to take a ferry ride up and down the Choa Phraya river. Both tourist and commuter boats ply their trade and it is a delightful way to while away an afternoon. Alternatively one might catch one of the courtesy ferries to the grand hotels that line the river and take afternoon tea. The Oriental offers such a repast and I feel certain that the cost of the Victoria Sponge would amply recompense the hotel for the fuel consumed by the ferry service.

Going north the next destination I Surasak. From here it is possible to walk via several interesting historical and art galleries to Chong Nonsi – the station in the middle of the business district. Alighting at Surasak will enable you to reach easily two intriguing art galleries – H gallery and Katmandu. H is located on Sathorn Soi 14 and is run by H himself. A native of America this urbane oenophile has been part of the art scene in Bangkok for nearly a decade. For the serious collector of modern art this gallery is not to be missed not only for the art itself but also for the loving restoration of one of the few remaining traditional teak houses in Bangkok. H is a perfect host and will welcome those who aren’t necessarily buying but genuinely interested in the pictures displayed.

Moving on to Katmadu on Thanon Pan is quite a contrast. The proprietor, Ing, talked with considerable passion about the current state of artistic expression in Thailand noting the creeping sense of self censorship whilst showing me round the photographic exhibition. Her husband, Manit Sriwanichpoom, is a famous photographer himself and leafing through his books on display downstairs you can understand why. His images capture the city in all its diversity – from the slums to the noveau riche architecture and culture of excess. Across the road from Katmandu is one of those odd fragments that one comes across in Bangkok, Though predominantly Buddhist freedom of religion is in the Thai constitution and sitting incongruously in the midst of Silom road’s traffic is a Hindu temple. Being an area where many Indians gather there are also a number of Indian eateries – try a Masala tea and an Indian sweet before you continue your journey.

Though never under the colonial yoke Thailand had to deal with foreigners long before the Vietnamese war and two remnants of the past that still serve the resident foreign community exist just a short walk from Katmandu. Wilson Hayes library for me is one of those little known gems that exist in all cities. Established and run by women it has seen epochs come and go – the occupying Japanese used it as accommodation and emptied it of books – but has survived them all. Now it sits imposingly in a small garden. It is a proper library: walk in and you feel you are disturbing people. One finds oneself whispering and each movement in the big chairs causes looks of consternation from the regular readers who have been sitting in the same place since 1963. Was it my imagination or did the Librarian gaze in disapproval over her horn rimmed spectacles at me. Next to this lovely reminder of a bygone age is the British Club. Still going strong after one hundred years this haven in the midst of Bangkok is open to British and other nationalities. Boasting all the usual amenities it has a pleasant atmosphere and delightful architecture. The casual visitor can purchase a day membership but for those staying a long time it certainly worth the cost of joining as a member.

“One night in Bangkok and the world’s your oyster …….’ So goes the song and it might well have been written by someone visiting Patpong having got of the train at Sala Daeng. Here is not the place to go into the delights being offered but suffice to say that you probably wouldn’t find anything similar in suburban England at one in the afternoon. In the evening it is even more frenzied – is that the cultural attaché of the British Embassy deep in conversation with a bevy of scantily clad ‘dancers’? The Sala Deang area also boasts many pubs and more subdued entertainments. The Irish Exchange is noted for its fake bohemian atmosphere with the leprechauns prancing out of the walls – possibly protesting at the price of Guinness.

Moving on from the moral turpitude one reaches the 5th station – Rachadamri. Gazing out from the elevated platform one looks down onto a golf course. In fact you are looking onto the grounds of Thailand’s most prestigious club – The Royal Bangkok Sports Club. As the entrance is a long walk to the other side it is not possible to enter it from Rachadamri for the racing that goes on here instead one can walk to Lumpini park – a less exclusive area of greenery which is open to all. Lumpini, named after Buddhi’s birthplace, offers a welcome respite from the seeming chaos of the city. With tennis courts, badminton courts acres of greenery and, my personal favourite, paddle boats in the shapes of swans, it truly caters for most tastes. If you come here early in the morning you will see the Chinese community practicing their Tai Chi. Returning to the station you will pass AUA – the American Alumini Association. Besides a useful library – a bit more up to date the Neilson Hayes – it gives English courses to Thais and teaches Thai to foreigners. It is an inexpensive and pleasant environment in which to learn.

Siam Square. A whole book could be written about this place. A labyrinth of shops, a university, endless cram schools, cinemas, an aquarium and much, much more. But lets stick to the side opposite the big new shopping complex. These days Siam Square has become a centre for young people to parade their fashions - I once saw a hand-bag in the shape of a Volkswagen car here – and even has its own radio station. Walking round the quirky little boutique shops is paradise for anyone interested in fashion and if you are not, just sit and watch the people who are. If you tire of the crowds it is possible to escape them by going into Chulalongkorn Universtiy’s Campus – this is an especially fascinating place at the beginning of the academic year when the new student intake is in full swing.

But in truth it is exhausting and the heat can be oppressive. Perhaps a little air-conditioning is in order?

The end of the line is the National Stadium. Actually few important events are held here now though I did see Sweden’s football team play Thailand here once. These days grander sporting venues have been built where there is more space and less traffic. But if you like to shop in slightly more comfort – and I say slightly – MBK is an interesting option. A huge complex MBK is renown for it competitive pricing and range of goods and is extremely easy to get to from the National Stadium Station. An elevated walkway in fact connects Siam Square station and the National Stadium and on the way to shop one need only pause to perhaps drink a fresh pomegranate juice that is kept on ice by the vendors. Enough of the shops though because the last place to visit is Jim Thompson’s house. Jim Thompson was a somewhat mysterious figure whose death in the Cameroon Highlands of Malaysia in 1967 has never been fully solved. What is certain is that he did a great deal to salvage the Thai silk weaving industry. The house in which he lived is situated on a Klong ( canal) just a few minutes walk from the station on Soi Kasemsan 2. It is another reminder of a Bangkok which is fast disappearing. If you walk around the Streets near his house you will realize just how quickly things are changing in the city. Still enjoy the peace and beauty of his elegant residence and then try to resist the temptation to buy yards of silk. The very reasonable admission fee will suddenly seem irrelevant if you do.

This brings you to the end of the North South line and now you can glide home in comfort and style – assuming of course you are not traveling in the peak traffic time. Bangkokians are beginning to realize that they have never had it so good and the trains are becoming fully utilized at certain times of the day. However, I can categorically assure you that it is much pleasanter to be hemmed in for ten minutes than go through the hell of sitting in a taxi for two hours. You don’t know how lucky you are!

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