The History of Nakorn Phanom
by Konkawan Sophanawattanavichit

translated by Jason Rolan, NxNE Lao Country Director

Nakorn Phanom at sunrise with views over the Mekong River

North by North East is headquartered on the banks of the Mekong River, in Nakorn Phanom, Thailand. This quaint town is home to an interesting mix of histories from Thailand, Laos and Vietnam - all of which provides a legacy still seen in today's daily life! Jason Rolan provides a glimpse of some of the more interesting moments in our towns history!

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In 1794, HM Phra Puttha Yot Fa Chula Loke, Rama I, or the first King of Siam, bestowed the name of Nakorn Phanom on the city on the right bank of the Mekong opposite Tha Khek in Laos. “Nakorn” being the Sanskrit term for “city”, and “Phanom” the Khmer word for “mountain”. But the area has a history spanning much longer and a current population of surprising diversity.

The region (on both sides of the Mekong) was once the seat of the Sri Khotabun kingdom and, according to an ancient chronicle, was actually visited by the Buddha. The chronicle records that while the Buddha stayed on Orphan Hill on the Mekong’s right bank, Phraya (Lord) Sri Khotabun invited him to receive alms in his capital city on the left bank. Suddenly, the Buddha had a vision that some of his relics would be installed in a stupa on that hill after he “went to Nirvana”. The legend then states that 8 years after the Buddha’s death, 500 Arahants (Buddhist Saints) traveled back to Orphan Hill carrying pieces of the Buddha’s breastbone. Phraya Nantasen, the current ruler of the area, gathered neighboring potentates from Tonkin, Cambodia, Nong Haan Luang and Nong Haan Noi to help construct the new temple and stupa – That Phanom – which also became the new capital city.

That Phanom present day with traditional bamboo organ musician in foreground

Just after Phraya Nantasen’s death, an epidemic broke out in That Phanom city. His younger brother then moved the survivors and cleared an area of forest about 25 km north and named the spot Merukha Nakorn. Peace lasted in the area for many centuries. The royal chronicles of Cambodia mention that “The Lord of Khotabun, whose powerful sword clashes against all other Lords, also has the extraordinary virtue to ride horses through the air. But when he swung his sword in error, he fled and married a princess of the Lane Xang kingdom.” After this, Sri Khotabun became an outpost of Lane Xang.

In 1778 AD, a disgruntled noble, Gu Kaew, broke away, founded his own city and planned an uprising to overthrow Lord Merukha Nakorn, formerly Sri Khotabun. Lord Merukha Nakorn asked the Vientiane monarchs for military support against the uprising, but was denied. He then went to the nearest available military power – the Annamese in present day Vietnam. The Annamese sent 4000 soldiers to help stop the revolt. Gu Kaew intercepted the Annamese soldiers and claimed to be the Lord Merukha Nakorn. He and the Annamese quickly demolished the city of Merukha Nakorn. The real Lord Merukha Nakorn fled with his family and requested the Vientiane monarchs again for assistance. The rulers of Vientiane finally assented and sent military force. The Vientiane army set up camp on the Mekong opposite from Gu Gaew and the Annamese. The Annamese noticed the growing military presence and quickly created a pontoon bridge across the Mekong using local sponge-like gourds. Under a barrage of cannonade from the Vientiane side, the bridge finally collapsed and a fierce hand-to-hand combat ensued. The Annamese were swiftly killed and most of their bodies ended up found floating near an island in the river, now still referred to as “Don Gaew Gong”, or Island of the Pile of Vietnamese Bodies.

the Mekong today - peaceful and limestone mountians of Thakeak provide a beautiful backgroud!

The Vientiane commander persuaded the errant Gu Kaew to concede defeat and the Vientiane rulers reinstated him as a noble and even gave him his own fiefdom just north of That Phanom. The Lord Merukha Nakorn also created a new city, since old Merukha Nakorn was razed.

1779 saw the takeover of all of the kingdoms of Laos by Siam after a power struggle between warring Lao factions. In 1794, the seat of Merukha Nakorn was incorporated into the emerging Kingdom of Siam, the name was changed to Nakorn Phanom and the city moved farther north.

The vassal Vientiane monarchy was not happy with the Siamese conquest and in 1826, Chao Anouvong revolted against Bangkok. He was defeated and Vientiane razed to the ground. To better incorporate Laos under Siamese sovereignty, Phra Nang Klao, the third King of Siam, relocated much of the Lao population to the right bank of the Mekong. An influence still felt today by the 25 million Lao speakers in Isan and the numerous scatterings of tribal peoples throughout the region. Identical tribes exist now on both sides of the Mekong, often unbeknownst to those on the other side.

That Phanom in moonlight

****More on Nakorn Phanom’s Cultural Diversity Next Month****

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