Smiles!

The following is an edited version of a travelogue of Jim Simone who joined the North by North East mountain bike team on a survey of cycling potential for uncharted portions of the former Ho Chi Minh Trail in Lao, PDR . As with all explorations of off-the-beaten track locations you can only expect the unexpected. What Jim experienced was totally unexpected –
the smiles of the people!

Kevin Gibson (North by North East Cycling Expert), Toui (North by North East Guide) and I were set to start what would hopefully be a 500K biking trip on a previously unexplored section of the Ho Chi Minh trail in southern Laos. We had the equipment, we had a support jeep, we had an itinerary, we had a plan. But the only thing that really was useful in the long run was our ability to remain flexible and adapt.

One of the adventures when doing a trail for the first time is that you don’t always know which way to go, or the condition of the trail ahead. This becomes especially interesting when the local villagers not only don’t speak English, but speak a mountain dialect that even many Lao don’t always understand. So we got lost once or twice- ok maybe more than that- but this led us through villages that were really off the path, and it confirmed for us the existence of a trail that we thought existed, but didn’t appear on any map.

As we rolled into one village - it was getting dark - we had no lights, no idea what the trail was like- so we decided to stay the night. While Toui talked with the headman to arrange meals and a bed - Kevin and I tried to get to know the villagers. It turns out we were the first Fa rang (Lao for Westerner) to ever stop in that village, and the first Farange anyone had even seen in over 7 years. This really turned into an adventure.

Kevin and I were soon in the middle of a group of villagers, and of course we didn’t speak the language- so- we started what we came to refer to as the Dinner Show. Now there was no electricity, or running water, or indoor plumbing or anything, so it got dark very quickly, though they did have a couple of fires burning, which helped. Everyone was very interested in the bikes, and my MP3 player- we then pulled out some magnets and eventually a camera. This was really an incredible experience- mainly because we were all communicating with each other without the use of spoken language.

Joining in on the fun of the 'Dinner Show'

They did teach me some Lao - Sabai Dee Jao - how are you, hello, like that) and we taught them a little English (How yous doing?)- which everyone found to be a funny sounding language (probably my Chicago accent). This went on for about 2 hours until we just ran out of material. So finally we went to the headman’s house and they made us dinner and set up some bedding- all we had were the clothes we were wearing- but they had a mat and a blanket and mosquito nets- and sticky rice, chicken and vegetables- we were in heaven.

After dinner, all the elder men came over and we talked as they smoked about 500 cigarettes, about village life, the war, and what they would like to see in their village in 10 years. They were very adamant that they hoped to get some modern conveniences like electricity, running water, a school etc.

Jim and Toui donating school supplies to the village headman

Then they asked us, what is your advice- what would you tell us as far as development of the village. This was a very difficult question, because from my perspective these people had something that was much more valuable than electricity. That is the connection of intergenerational family and community life that exist here in a way that no longer seems to exist in the U.S. or other “developed” countries. It would be nice to think that a culture could get some of the conveniences, such as electricity, T.V., etc. and not lose the connections which already exist. Really, the only answer I could come up with was that no matter what they gain in the future, to try not to lose what they already have, because peace, contentment and connection are really the most important things. This was something we could all agree upon.

The next morning, I think the whole village turned out to see us off that day and it really was a magical experience. To connect with a group of people that have such a different life existence than us- and yet to get beyond all that , we were able to connect at a very basic level, and really they want the same things I want out of life, friends, family, health, and to be connected to other people. The rest really is not as important as we sometimes make it.

As I sit here, reliving this tip and looking at the photos’, one thing is very clear. Laos is an incredible country. My friend’s words’ ring in my ears” It’s one of the last unspoiled countries”. The countryside was beautiful, the ride was a once in a lifetime experience, but what really stand out is the people. I noticed when I returned that the vast majority of my photos are of people, smiling, laughing people. To be able to connect with people on a level much deeper than language, to get to know people who have a completely different life experience, and them to get to know you- to be able to take that with me- that is truly a gift.

For more information on mountain biking in Laos and personalized travel arrangements please contact:

North by North-East Travel
Tel: +66 (0) 4251 3572
Fax:+66 (0) 4251 3573
e-mail: info@ north-by-north-east.com
Web site: www.north-by-north-east.com