Visitors to Southeast Asia often come to marvel at the gilded temples which form such an integral part of local life. Luang Prabang is of keen interest as it boasts a very high ratio of temples in the city center (allegedly some 30+). Thanks to receiving the UNESCO World Heritage distinction (and even more valuable restoration funds) in 1995, this city is preserved almost as it was at the early 20th century, when it was a little known hill station in a backwater French colony.

The city of Luang Prabang dates back to at least the 12th century when the Lane Xang (Million Elephants) Kingdom was founded on the confluence of the Mekong and Khan rivers by Khmer-backed Fa Ngum. The original name was Muang Sawa, Sawa being Java in Lao accent, likely denoting the Javanese conquer of the Chenla empire in modern day Southern Laos and Northern Cambodia. This conquest founded the Khmer Empire which raised great stone temples still frequently visited in Angkor today.

After receiving the precious golden Prabang (a Buddha image) from Sri Lanka, the city's name was changed to Luang Prabang (Great Prabang). The actual seat of the Lane Xang monarchy volleyed between Luang Prabang and Vientiane (the current capital of Laos) over the ages, but Luang Prabang has always maintained a more royal aura. During the 14th to 19th centuries, many temples were built by various kings to build merit and commemorate military victories. In 1887, Black Haw invaders swept through northern Laos and devastated Luang Prabang and its temples, which supposedly totalled 66 before the invasion. All except for Wat Xieng Thong and Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham were devastated. Shortly after this attack, the Lao kingdom reconsidered an offer of French protection and so began more than half a century as a part of French Indochina.

To this day, visitors are entranced by the relaxed atmosphere, cozy French colonial architecture and glitteringly restored temples at the heart of Luang Prabang.

On a whim, I decided to visit all 29 of the temples East of the Mekong listed on the Lonely Planet map - all in one day and on foot! Most people visit 2 or 3 and then call it quits, claiming they're "templed out". Coupled with the March heat, this would prove to be one of the most daunting tasks of my life.

Map of Luang Prabang

NOTE: To visit all the temples in one day, I essentially had to run, snap a photo and run to the next. Many would claim this doesn't actually constitute a "real" visit as I rarely had time to take in and learn about each temple. But to do it all in one day, is there really any other option?

Photos are left to right, top to bottom (1,2,3,4,5,6)

In the early morning I traveled to Wat Sa-at (photo 1) on the right bank of the Khan River and took in some wonderful views of the northern peninsula of Luang Prabang across the river. Next I moved south to Wat Paa Khaa (photo 2) which was most unusual as it was the only ruined temple I encountered. I surmise that it too was devastated by the Black Haw invaders in 1887 and has seen no restoration. Onward past Wat Phan Luang (photo 3) and Wat Tao Hai (photo 4) and over the small bridge across the Khan River to the main peninsula. Wat Visoun boasts an unusual Sinhalese-style domed stupa (photo 5) nicknamed That Makmo or Watermelon Stupa. In Southeast Asia, "That", "Stupa" and "Chedi" are all terms given to steeple-shaped monuments which are said to house relics (bone fragments) of the Buddha. Right next door sits Wat Aham, which has two huge, ancient Bodhi trees and used to be the seat of the Supreme Patriarch of Lao Buddhism (sort of like the Lao Pope).

Photos are left to right, top to bottom (7,8,9,10,11,12)

In a hidden back street stands Wat Aphai (photo 7). Now on a very long walk to Wat Manorom (photo 8) which houses over 70 novice monks! In the evenings at around 4 pm, the monks play the temple drums and cymbals in a delightful, rhythmical cadence which I've had the pleasure of hearing on a previous visit. Nearby Wat That Luang (photo 9) has a large stupa which contains the cremated remains of King Sisavang Vong, the King responsible for Lao independence from French rule. A short jaunt later and I was outside Wat Pha Baat Tai (photo 10) in a mostly Vietnamese community. The architecture on this temple looks French Catholic, similar to Hanoi cathedrals, if it weren't for the Buddhist spires and Buddha images. A good hike back up Luang Prabang's main drag leads me to Wat Pha Mahathat (photo 11), also known as Wat That. The Chedi here is reminiscent of those found in northern Thailand's Lan Na (Million Rice Fields) Kingdom. Next door is Wat Ho Siang (photo 12).

Photos are left to right, top to bottom (13,14,15,16,17,18)

Just up the road is Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham (photo 13), one of the 2 temples spared by the Black Haw invaders, supposedly because it was too beautiful. This temple is quite remarkable for its huge 5-tiered roof and golden relief doors and walls. Across the street and a few steps up Phousi Mountain, the heart of Luang Prabang, sits the small, lonely Wat Paa Huak (photo 14). Only the one building and no monks at all. The Lonely Planet claims that the inner murals are worth a look, but I found no one nearby with a key. A short distance away is Wat Chum Khong (photo 15). Nearby is Wat Xieng Muan (photo 16). This temple is especially important now because it houses an art school for monks. After the revolution, many artisans fled to other countries and there was no one left who could restore or create the intricate patterns, paintings and structures in Lao temples. Thanks to international funding, this school trains the monks in the ways of woodcarving, painting and other skills necessary for temple maintenance. Just around the corner rests Wat Paa Phai (photo 16) and Wat Nong Sikhunmeuang (photo 17).

Photos are left to right, top to bottom (19,20,21,22,23,24)

Nearby is Wat Saen (photo 19) my favorite temple in Luang Prabang. I feel drawn to the beautiful restoration and unique red and gold paintings on the outer walls, which one typically only sees inside the temples. Up the road are Wat Sop (photo 20), Wat Sirimungkhun (photo 21) and Wat Si Bun Heuang (photo 22), which all sit in a row touching each other. Wat Xieng Thong (photo 23) is the most renowned and revered temple in Luang Prabang. This was the other temple that got off relatively unscathed in the marauding of Luang Prabang. Apparently the leader of the Black Haw had spent time here as a monk and spared it. This is probably the most photographed temple because of its low-sweeping roofs and original buildings. Just across the street is Wat Pakkhan (photo 24).

Photos are left to right, top to bottom (25,26,27,28)

Down the street back towards Phousi Mountain is Wat Khili (photo 25), whose whorled gables looks very similar to temples in Chiang Mai. Back on the northern slope of Phousi is Wat Siphoutthabat (photo 26). All of the 700+ novice monks who live in Luang Prabang go to school here. They learn Dharma, Pali and Sanskrit languages, math and English. Just behind it up the slope is Wat Thammo (photo 27). Even farther up is a small grotto with an underground shrine known as Wat Tham Phu Si (photo 28).

That Chomsi - End of the line

At the top of the hill, I reach my final destination - That Chomsi. This is a major landmark and can be viewed from most places in Luang Prabang. And at the end of a very long day, it is a great place to check out the view of the city and catch fantastic sunsets over the Mekong!