Guaytieo:
The Ironic Noodle of Thai Nationalism
By Jason Rolan
The 1930s were an economically difficult time for the world.
Siam was no exception. A coup d'etat in 1932 replaced the absolute monarchy
with a constitutional monarchy, and Generals of the Siamese Military made
up the new government's leaders. They promised a constitution and a way out
of the world economic crash.
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| Luang Plaek Phibunsongkhram |
One of the most prominent prime ministers/dictators of the
era was Luang Plaek Phibunsongkhram (aka Phibun), who reigned from 1938-1944
and 1948-1957. During his rule, he hastened the pace of modernization and
created an ultra-nationalist movement. Some of his most important and most
unusual changes to the country were:
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| The Current Thai Flag |
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| Traditional Thai Dress |
Phibun also worked to stimulate local economies by introducing
a new dish to wider audiences, and inadvertently creating one of the most
common Thai foods seen today: guaytieo.
Guaytieo (also known in Laos and Vietnam as Phơ) is
a bowl of boiled rice noodles, various meats and vegetables. Thais flavor
this dish to taste with mixture fish sauce, crushed red chilies, ground peanuts,
vinegar, sugar and sometimes shrimp paste and lime. Everyone has their own
combination of condiments to create the perfect bowl. Also, as a nod to its
origins, Guaytieo is one of the few foods in Thailand eaten with chopsticks;
Thais generally use spoons and forks.
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| Guaytieo |
Guaytieo harnesses local produce; thus, benefiting rice, livestock and vegetable
farmers. Phibun issued an edict to the Thai people to eat this dish more
often to stimulate local economies. All provincial governors, district officials,
and school principals received pamphlets detailing recipes and urging the
sale of guaytieo everywhere. Soon, these noodles took off in popularity and
remain so to this day.
But where does that word come from? It doesn't sound Thai. And it isn't.
Guaytieo was brought to Thailand by the Teochew Chinese. The Thais adopted
the noodles and the Teochew name for it as well.
Sadly, during these hard times the Phibun regime also provoked
a nationwide anti-Chinese feeling, as traditionally those of Chinese descent
were the wealthier merchant class in urban centers. State-run monopolies
were created to take over commodities such as rice, petroleum and tobacco.
The Chinese were publicly likened to the Jews in Germany, as they were seen
to control the economy. A ludicrous idea, as Chinese traders had been invited
to immigrate to urban Siamese areas throughout the centuries in efforts to
boost local economies. The Chinese were respected and intermarried with Thais
very frequently. Today almost all Thai citizens boast some degree of Chinese
heritage. The Chinese of Phibun's time were just as Thai as everyone else.
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Arch built by Thai-Chinese to
Commemmorate the 72nd Birthday
of His Majesty the King in 1999 |
Yet, as the flame of anti-Chinese fervor fanned by the
Phibun government eventually died down, the embrace of a traditionally-Chinese
dish remains an absurd, yet tasty, paradox.