A Farang's Musings on Isan
Food and Culture

by Bryan Derrick

For years, Australian culinary explorer, entrepreneur, restaurateur and gourmand Bryan Derrick traveled the farthest reaches of Thailand & Laos in search of exceptional local cuisines. The famous & iconic destinations seen in guidebooks of course featured in his travels, often serving as starting points for Bryan's investigations. But much more tenuous leads often took Bryan to remote areas where he not only discovered unusually delicious cuisine, but where – almost by accident – Bryan was welcomed into the warm hearts of the Thai & Lao peoples. The love & gentle music-of-the-soul that compels Bryan today to create the famous Thai & Lao fusion cuisine found at his flourishing Paladarr Thai Issan restaurant in Melbourne, Australia is also accessible to our guests.

Bryan is leading our special one-off Gourmand's Odyssey through Thailand and Laos next month. There are only a few spots left, so sign up today!

Several hours into my journey, and still a little groggy from having to wake at a horrid hour to make my flight from Bangkok upcountry to Isan (Thailand's Northeast) the drive from Udon Thani to Ban Nong Hin, the home village of Loem, my absent Thai partner, seemed to take forever.

Thai - Isan - Lao Culinary Expert Bryan Derrick

As it often does when I'm idle, confined and the tummy rumbles, my mind turned to matters of food!

My musings ended abruptly as Sayan, my driver, opened the van door, letting in the still chilly morning air of the mountainous Loei Province.

I had arrived in Ban Nong Hin (Village of Lakes and Stones) to deliver goodwill and a few needful things to Loem's relatives.

Long-standing obligations and appointments, however, meant that while I would have loved to spend a few days just living at 'village speed,' I had only that afternoon.

The journey to Isan is always rewarded; firstly by the warmth of the welcome, and secondly by what always seems to happen next...

Upon being informed that I had only a few hours to visit with them, my Isan family realized I couldn't stay through suppertime, and so an entire cooking team swung into action. In no time at all the table was set (a concession to the western visitors!) and a wonderful meal of several courses magically appeared before us!

Village Women Preparing Dinner

This delightful welcoming experience simply ‘says it all.'

The differences between the Western dining culture in which I was raised, and the Thai 'Culture of Food' is not limited to just flavours & ingredients, but seems to approach the entire ritual of eating in a holistically different and often highly charming manner.

Western fast food outlets apparently calculate that uncomfortable plastic chairs will, on average, allow a person to sit comfortably for only 11 minutes - just the time needed to wolf down two or three wads of predictably monotonous precooked fare.

When eating-on-the-run how many times have I left my plastic seat even before the calculated average 11 minutes?

Worse still, I offer the lame excuse of “not having the time” to eat at all while willfully submitting to the bizarre minute-by-minute schedules that appear mandatory in modern western society.

Thai, Lao and indeed Isan cultures have constructed time worn rituals and customs, pivoting around the meal experience, which preclude the likelihood of our well-known modern stress-related illnesses gaining a toe-hold there and inevitably creating fodder for burgeoning health industries so commonplace in the West.

Traditional Isan Food: Sticky Rice, Grilled Chicken, Somtam, Soups and Sauces

The following all-too-limited observations of mine may provide some “food for thought”.

•  Isan Food, in its preparation, presentation and enjoyment acts as social glue of sorts. Any meal at any time of day in Isan and Laos represents an opportunity to gather: friends, family, neighbors, and very often, even strangers! This is especially true in Isan where one will always hear the calls to “come and eat with us.”

•  Anyone is welcome, and those passing by are always invited. It's about inclusivity verses exclusivity. This is a very social pastime. Good will is generated. These are the primal joys of preparing and enjoying simple and delicious food more often than not, created directly from the immediate environment.

•  Nothing is wasted.

•  I am continually astounded that what appears to me to be such a relatively small inventory of raw ingredients can form the basics for myriads of tastes and flavour combinations.

When I asked Loem what he felt were the hallmark qualities of Isan cuisine, he thought for a while and replied:

•  “We eat Sticky Rice, we eat with our hands, our food is stronger, hotter and spicier and we use Pla Ra - a well known fermented fish. (and let me tell you, it's an acquired taste!!!! - Bryan )

•  Isan people eat similar meals whether it is lunch or dinner or breakfast. We often spread a mat and eat on the floor, we always share, we talk before and after, and share with friends and even strangers.

Loem insists that no matter where you go and what status you attain, you must stay grounded, remember the values your community taught to you from your youth, and never to forget where you come from. All of these cornerstones of Loem's life are exemplified and put into practice in Isan's “Culture of Food”. It's a little wonder that his food tastes so good.

Laap is a Spicy Minced Meat Salad

•  Join us at Paladarr Thai Issan in Melbourne, Australia and experience some of this wonderful culture for yourself.

Better still, come with us on our Gourmand's Odyssey in March to the heart of this often unseen amazing region and imbibe enough food art and culture to last you a lifetime. You'll never forget the experience.

See you on the journey,

Bryan