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Thankfully, much of Cambodia's cultural heritage survived the Khmer Rouge's 'clean slate' approach to history. Along with the estimated two million Cambodians who died, millions of artefacts, statues and books were destroyed, but famous examples of Angkorian-era architecture like Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom emerged relatively unscathed. The National Museum in Phnom Penh is the best place to see examples of Khmer sculpture, in particular the beautifully depicted Hindu deities. The country's most tangible link with its glorious past is its highly stylised royal ballet, traditionally linked to the dance of Thailand, Java and India. Dance was also threatened by the Pol Pot years, with only one seamstress surviving to pass on the ancient techniques of costume design.
Theravada Buddhism is Cambodia's dominant religion. Khmer is the official language - it's a tricky one to learn, but a little will go a long way. English is fast becoming the dominant second language, overtaking French, which is still spoken by many people who grew up before the 1970s.
In general, Khmer cuisine is similar to Thai, but with fewer spices. A Cambodian meal almost always includes a soup, and fish is the nation's mainstay - grilled freshwater fish, wrapped in lettuce or spinach and dipped into a nutty fish sauce, is a particular speciality. Salad dishes are flavoured with coriander, mint and lemongrass - three flavours which find their way into many Cambodian dishes. The French influence is best seen in the daily-baked bread. Sweet dishes include sticky rice cakes and jackfruit pudding. Tap water is best avoided, as is the proliferation of 'muscle wines', so stock up on mineral water, fruit-smoothy concoctions and the usual array of soft drinks.
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